You know the moment well. You have been unconscious all night in the air conditioned comfort of your Phnom Pen pad when you suddenly awake to flashing lights, the dry horrors and somebody kicking you in the head. In total confusion and terror, you reach under the bed for the baseball bat to stave off the home invaders that are assaulting you and as you knock over the glass of water and the can of mosquito repellant, you realise you are not being violently accosted but rather have done it to yourself. Ah yes. The dreaded hangover. Self inflicted and oh-so-easy to obtain in a city like Phnom Penh where the bars are plentiful and beer is cheaper than a singing budgie. Questions flood into your head. What day is it? Am I working today? What was I drinking? Where was I drinking? Who was I drinking with? Do I need to apologise to anyone? How did I get home? Who is that lying next to me?….and the all important one…..HOW THE HELL DO I GET RID OF THIS PAIN?
In an attempt to assist all of you fellow booze hounds out there with your quest for a suitable hangover cure, I submit the following varying remedies in no particular order. They are all tried and tested and they all have varying merits so try each one and stick with that which works best for you!
Firstly and 100% guaranteed to leave you without one iota of a hangover is the sure fire method of…wait for it…..NOT drinking. Anyone who lives in Phnom Penh knows this is a preposterous suggestion so let’s just move on shall we.
Secondly, drugs. Really really strong ones. Bugger aspirin. Why use a cap gun on an elephant when Xanax, Valium, Diazepam, Rohypnol and a veritable cornucopia of other stupefying legal drugs are all available from the corner store ?. You don’t need to visit a psychiatrist to get a prescription for them but the problem is, taken in the wrong quantities or in the wrong sequence and you might have more than a hangover to worry about.
Thirdly, eat a massive, greasy breakfast with all manner of gut filling fare on the plate. There is some silly theory about the oils in greasy meals having a physiological effect on alcohol in your blood system. All I know is that sometimes a greasy breakfast with a cup of coffee will make you feel good for a little while but it can also put you at high risk of sudden and violent regurgitation. This inevitably makes you feel worse than before.
Fourthly, sex. Highly controversial this one. Maybe it is just me but I sometimes find a morning nooky fixes a hangover. However, sometimes the inevitable blood rush to the head will leave your head thumping and in a worse state and, also, how well do you really know that person lying next to you? How good do they look now you have taken those beer goggles off? Still…..sex is always a good thing so maybe go ahead anyway and then worry about the hangover?
Finally, the cure that gets my vote as the best way to avoid a hangover without a doubt (a million bumper stickers and t-shirts cannot be wrong) is simply STAY DRUNK. That’s right. You heard me! Have a Bloody Mary with that greasy breakfast. Wash that Xanax down with a beer. Go to a bar for a liquid brunch and marvel at the effects of the good old “Hair of the Dog.The first and maybe second will hurt a bit but after that you are away to the races. No more dusty mouth, headache or blurry vision. You will soon be feeling as good as gold and ready to do it all over again. Excellent Stuff !.
Friday, June 29, 2007
Thursday, June 28, 2007
Phnom Penh Police Reports for June
Better get me one of these blokes !JUNE 1: A medical doctor, Chan Na, 43, was sent to a provincial hospital after two gangsters injured him during a robbery while driving home on a motorbike with a neighbor at 8:30pm in Khlaing Prak village, Kampong Chhnang province. The neighbor said the two robbers blocked his path and chopped Chan Na with a hoe then escaped empty-handed after he shouted for help. One of the two was identified as Kheam Chantha, 27.
JUNE 2: Khan Touch, 24, was found hanging at 8:30am in Koh Tauch village, Kandal province. Police said Touch committed suicide because he loved a girl and wanted to marry her but his parents refused his proposal. His mother said her son was angry and hanged himself from the roof of the house after their engagement was denied.
JUNE 3: Police are looking for Chham Praing, 35, who escaped after injuring his father-in-law, Or Hurn, 68, at 1:30pm in Chrous Tasom village, Kampot province. Police said Praing was drunk and chopped Hurn in the head with an ax to stop him arguing with his wife.
JUNE 3: Lai Sivutha, a police officer, was sent to Calmette Hospital for surgery after being accidentally shot at 10:30pm in Tuol Sangke commune, Phnom Penh. Police said Sivutha was shot once in the stomach by his colleague while they were trying to stop an argument between two groups of gangsters. Police said the shooter promised to pay the medical bill.
JUNE 4: Five gunmen escaped after robbing a gold vendor Phon Sophal, 39, while he was sleeping at midnight in Krom village, Mouk Kampoul district, Kandal province. Sophal complained to police that the robbers carrying AK-47s, entered the house and threatened to kill the whole family if he shouted for help. Sophal said they collected 40 damleung of jewelry, $13,000 and 49 million riel in cash. Police later arrested three of the five robbers who were Dy Hay, 26, Oun Da, 27, and Sun Khem, 25.
JUNE 4: Meas Sohtea, 27, was sent to Preah Ketomealea hospital for surgery after being shot at midnight as he walked home with his three other friends in Chey Chumnas commune, Phnom Penh. Police said Sothea was shot three times with a K-59 handgun. A friend told police an unknown man left his car and shot Sothea after he crossed the street in front of his car.
JUNE 4: X.O Karaokay's Manager, Ken Thiriya, 28, was lifted from the river after she jumped from the Cambodian Japan Friendship bridge at 9:30pm in Chrouy Changvar commune, Phnom Penh. Police said Thiriya left a Lexus car and jumped from the bridge while returning home with two friends Heng Lili, 29, Srey Na, 22. Lili said the suicide was not related to a love affair as Thiriya recently complained that she owed a creditor more than $10,000.
JUNE 4: Chhit Chantha, 33, was lifted from the river for examination after police found her body floating in a river in Prek Praing village, Kratie province. Police said Chantha was murdered elsewhere and her body dumped into the river. Police said Chantha was killed after being raped and her belly opened up with an ax while she was looking after her buffaloes.
JUNE 5: Tith Pisith, 25, was found dead in a lake at 7:40am after he went missing four days ago in Trapaing Krasaing village, Kandal province. Police said Pisith probably drowned while bathing when he was drunk.
JUNE 5: A drug dealer, Hong Bunthong 42 was sent to Calmette Hospital after anti-drug police wounded him in the thigh when he was trying to escape arrest at 11:30am in Tumnop Teuk commune, Phnom Penh. Police said Bunthong, a police officer at the tourism police department in the Ministry of Interior, tried to escape after he was ordered to stop for inspection.
JUNE 5: Puoth Raksa, 31, was arrested after killing his wife, Sao Hean, 33, in Svay Daun Y village, Svay Rieng province. Police said Raksa chopped Hean in the neck and cut her throat with a cleaver while she was sleeping. Police said Raksa was jealous, after Hean returned home from a neighbor's house where she danced with people the previous night.
JUNE 6: Chouk Phearin, 18, and Chan Savurn, 17, were arrested for a murder in Khnach Khang Tbong village, Takeo province. Police said the two suspects killed Nhem Yin, 67, and stole his fake gold necklace and ring.
JUNE 6: Police arrested four drunken gangsters after injuring Yim Sinhao, 20, at 4:30pm in Kakarp commune, on the outskirts of Phnom Penh. Police said Sinhao was stabbed in the back with a knife and is now under medical treatment at Preah Kossamak hospital in Phnom Penh. Police named the four gangsters as Sak Sokhom, 20, Sip Ny, 22, Sin Channarith, 25, and Kao Chantha, 18. They were angry after Sinhao refused to drink wine with them.
JUNE 7: An ambulance took Kiry Chakriya, 18, to Preah Kett- omealea hospital after she was attacked with acid while walking home from Wat Koh secondary school where she has been studying in Boeng Raing commune, Phnom Penh. A passerby told police one of two unknown men poured one liter of acid on the head of Chakriya then escaped on a motorbike. Some rumors said a love affair was the reason of the acid attack.
JUNE 7: Yi Yem, 51, was arrested after injuring a woman, Tum Adiyan, 35, during an argument at 2:30pm in Peam Raingleu village, Kandal province. Police said the argument occurred after the woman cursed Yem's dog as it barked at her. Yem was angry because he misunderstood her and thought she was cursing him. The woman was chopped three times with an ax and sent to a hospital for treatment.
JUNE 8: Chey Chan, 32, was killed by lightning during an afternoon rain storm in Prek Chik village, Battambang province. Police said the lightning struck Chan while sheltering under a mango tree returning from his farm.
JUNE 8: Sok Sereyrouttanak, 24, was sentenced to three years in Prey Sor prison after Phnom Penh court charged him with extorting money, a crime he committed in January in Kakarp commune, on the outskirts of Phnom Penh. Presiding Judge, Sao Meach, said at the hearing that Sereyrouttanak extorted 35,000 riel from children while they were playing snooker.
JUNE 8: Chea Narth, 43, was axed and severely injured while arguing with her husband, Taing Ven, 39, at noon in Spean Tumneap village, Battambang province. Ven was later arrested and told police that the argument happened after Narth demanded a divorce. Narth was sent to a district hospital but was later transferred to Thailand as she was chopped eleven times in the head.
JUNE 9: Kong Naran, 19, was found dead in the early morning behind her house in Svay Khlaing village, Kampong Cham province. Provincial Police officer, Nor Dina said Naran was murdered and her neck had been cut with a knife after being raped the previous night. Dina said Naran was engaged with a man who was going to marry her in nine days.
JUNE 9: A crowd of people killed Noeu Voeun, 39, who was accused of stealing chickens at 8:05pm in Yous Chor village, Kampong Speu province. Police said Voeun was arrested and chopped to death with an ax while he and three other accomplices were attempting to steal chickens at Sok Seng's house.
JUNE 10: Khchao Song, 42, a gold vendor, was robbed while he was in a car with his wife and waiting for the front door to open after returning from Samaky market in Boeng Salaing commune, Phnom Penh. Song told police that four gunmen on two motorbikes aimed two handguns at him then they took a jewelry bag containing 42 damleung of platinum valued at $20,000.
JUNE 11: Three gunmen robbed a gold vendor, Te Hing, 46, at 1:10pm in Kampong Khlaing commune, Siem Reap province. Hing said the robbers came to his shop and took an AK-47 out of a bag, aimed at him, then collected 30 damleung of gold, and 12 damleung of platinum, and 5 million riels in cash. Before the gunmen escaped, they robbed another gold vendor, Tiv Vanna, 45, and stole 25 damleung of gold and platinum.
Friday, June 22, 2007
Intruder !?
The other night I was in the shower when I heard an almighty BANG/CRASH somewhere in the vicinity of my apartment. As previously mentioned, because of the way sound carries in my neighborhood, you never really know where things are happening. I didn’t think much of it and continued with my ablutions. After shaving and changing into some suitable nighttime attire, I head out the front door, locked it behind me and then started down the stairs. Well I did not make it very far before I was confronted by the sight of a large pile of rubble about halfway down the flight. What the hell? Looked like a bomb had gone off and as I looked up the wall I realised that a large course of bricks had broken away from the wall and come crashing down. Just as well I wasn’t under it!
So I started a CSI style investigation and upon closely inspecting the tin roof over the stairs, I discovered there were two indentations in it that looked just the right spacing apart for a set of feet. I reentered the apartment, armed myself with my hunting knife (given most home invasions here in The Penh involve axes, machetes and AK47s, this was a bit like taking a can of beer to a keg party ) and crept upstairs hoping I would be alone when I got up there. Luckily I was but on closer inspection it did indeed look like someone had landed on my tin roof, exerting a downward pressure on the course of bricks and sending them tumbling down. Nothing was missing and so I locked up gain and went out onto the street where I had a bit of a chat with the motodop drivers. They reckon it was a cat but it would have to have been a very large cat and as far as I am aware there are no lions, tigers, leopards or such in Phnom Penh.
Anyways to cut a short story shorter, it freaked the hell out of me and I will now be locking everything all the time. There are just too many stories in the papers about expat home invasions getting violent and bloody for my liking.
The sooner Bradoy gets back with my Colt .45 the better…..
So I started a CSI style investigation and upon closely inspecting the tin roof over the stairs, I discovered there were two indentations in it that looked just the right spacing apart for a set of feet. I reentered the apartment, armed myself with my hunting knife (given most home invasions here in The Penh involve axes, machetes and AK47s, this was a bit like taking a can of beer to a keg party ) and crept upstairs hoping I would be alone when I got up there. Luckily I was but on closer inspection it did indeed look like someone had landed on my tin roof, exerting a downward pressure on the course of bricks and sending them tumbling down. Nothing was missing and so I locked up gain and went out onto the street where I had a bit of a chat with the motodop drivers. They reckon it was a cat but it would have to have been a very large cat and as far as I am aware there are no lions, tigers, leopards or such in Phnom Penh.
Anyways to cut a short story shorter, it freaked the hell out of me and I will now be locking everything all the time. There are just too many stories in the papers about expat home invasions getting violent and bloody for my liking.
The sooner Bradoy gets back with my Colt .45 the better…..
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Despair !
A little while ago, I did a review on Restaurant Stall #11 / Street#7. Leakhena and I must have gone to this little food stall 20 times in the last few months for our favourite chicken rice porridge. The always smiling owner was a pure joy and always greeted us like long lost friends. Her little daughter tore around under the tables and all in all it was just a really nice, comfortable, cheap experience.
So imagine my devastation when we found last night, to our horror, that all the food stalls on Street #7 have been bulldozed! After a wonderful weekend we thought we would end it with a visit to our favourite eatery and when we arrived there was just rubble everywhere. We asked everyone where the owners had ended up but no-one knew anything. Honestly I fealt like a part of me had been ripped out. Sounds dramatic but I really loved that little restaurant.
So we drove halfway across town to have chicken porridge elsewhere and after sitting down and ordering a beer we were asked if we wanted……soup! Godamned NO! I Want fucking BO BO and I want fucking BO right fucking NOW ! Anyways luckily I had my little soothing princess with me and we soon settled into a conversation about all things Hun Sen and CCP. We do not talk politics a lot but when we do Leakhena surprises me with her interest and passion about her country and its plight. She informed me that our other favourite restaurant had been closed down as well because “too many patrons were peeing in the park opposite” Read; some rich government fuckwit arsehole wanted the block to develop it.
So not a very nice way to end an otherwise great weekend. Now I can’t help but wonder what will become of the family that ran our special little place on the park . I can always find another bowl of BO BO but will it be served with the same smile and the same warmth as I used to get? Maybe, maybe not. I am sure I will recover from this but I still think it SUX !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So imagine my devastation when we found last night, to our horror, that all the food stalls on Street #7 have been bulldozed! After a wonderful weekend we thought we would end it with a visit to our favourite eatery and when we arrived there was just rubble everywhere. We asked everyone where the owners had ended up but no-one knew anything. Honestly I fealt like a part of me had been ripped out. Sounds dramatic but I really loved that little restaurant.
So we drove halfway across town to have chicken porridge elsewhere and after sitting down and ordering a beer we were asked if we wanted……soup! Godamned NO! I Want fucking BO BO and I want fucking BO right fucking NOW ! Anyways luckily I had my little soothing princess with me and we soon settled into a conversation about all things Hun Sen and CCP. We do not talk politics a lot but when we do Leakhena surprises me with her interest and passion about her country and its plight. She informed me that our other favourite restaurant had been closed down as well because “too many patrons were peeing in the park opposite” Read; some rich government fuckwit arsehole wanted the block to develop it.
So not a very nice way to end an otherwise great weekend. Now I can’t help but wonder what will become of the family that ran our special little place on the park . I can always find another bowl of BO BO but will it be served with the same smile and the same warmth as I used to get? Maybe, maybe not. I am sure I will recover from this but I still think it SUX !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
A weekend at Le Imprevu resort
With yet another long weekend up my sleeve, I decided on a weekend of Gaelic celebration and after a Friday night of revelry at the French owned Do Do Rum House (see previous review), Leakhena and I packed our bags, mounted the Baja and headed for Le Imprevu resort. A mere 9 kms from my front door, this oasis of calm was recommended to me by work colleagues as a place where one could totally unwind without the need for a massive, long haul bike ride to get there.
We arrived at lunchtime on Saturday and were greeted under full sunshine by Jean-Pierre, a jovial Frenchman, who was wearing nothing more than gold chains, a smile, shorts and flip flops. After drooling at the large lagoon style pool, we were whisked through the lush tropical gardens to our $20 bungalow with no formalities such as registration or passport lodgment etc. All very informal indeed! The bungalow was a lovely little wooden number with our own bathroom, aircon and a mini bar with two big windows looking out into the jungle style gardens and we wasted no time in getting pool side.
As Leakhena demurely slipped into the pool in her lovely bikini (she is still getting used to it) I ordered a cold beer and two fish specials (delicious ocean fish with no bones – a lot like swordfish )and after devouring this fine fare, the rest of the day was spent luxuriating on daybeds by the lovely blue pool. We were joined by several mixed Khmer/French/US families and with several young children also splashing around, it made for an altogether happy bunch of aquatic revelers. As I watched Leakhena make like a little otter for ages, I was stunned when she told me later that it was her first ever time in a swimming pool ! “Why is the water blue? “, “Why do my eyes hurt? “ So I had to try and explain CHLORINE to her which she eventually grasped when I likened it to detergent.
We eventually retired for an afternoon siesta and then around 6pm we hit the restaurant for a casual dinner in the restaurant poolside. We were the only ones dining and it was very serene as the garden was lit up with spotlights. The mosquitoes were a bit fierce but a coil was soon proffered and after tucking in to spaghetti bolognaise and tom yam soup, we retired early for a spot of TV and sleep came swiftly.
The next day we made and executive decision to stay another night (we had only intended on staying one) and I had to take a quick run into Phnom Penh to get some cash but this only took an hour. It was just too nice and I knew Leakhena loved the pool. After a leisurely breakfast the entire day was spent poolside reading and listening to music and swimming and this day it actually got quite busy with day trippers. French was the main dialect of the day but Dutch was heard, North American, German, and Khmer etc….very international indeed! Leakhena was keen to go to Kien Svay food market down the road but I vetoed this. Why would you want to go to a dusty, hot food market where you have to run around getting your won food when you could be poolside having it delivered to you!!
So after two days and two nights of this, we were thoroughly relaxed having sleapt, eaten and swum like kings. The bill all up came to $155 including a tip and whilst we did not drink much, the food was just outstanding.Leakhena had the time of her life in the pool- although she was ruing the damage it had done to her hair!. I later took her to Psar Kandal for a hair and nail treatment and she was soon back to her former gorgeous glory – hell, I even had a pedicure and manicure ( $1) to finish of the weekend !
All in all…bliss!
We arrived at lunchtime on Saturday and were greeted under full sunshine by Jean-Pierre, a jovial Frenchman, who was wearing nothing more than gold chains, a smile, shorts and flip flops. After drooling at the large lagoon style pool, we were whisked through the lush tropical gardens to our $20 bungalow with no formalities such as registration or passport lodgment etc. All very informal indeed! The bungalow was a lovely little wooden number with our own bathroom, aircon and a mini bar with two big windows looking out into the jungle style gardens and we wasted no time in getting pool side.
As Leakhena demurely slipped into the pool in her lovely bikini (she is still getting used to it) I ordered a cold beer and two fish specials (delicious ocean fish with no bones – a lot like swordfish )and after devouring this fine fare, the rest of the day was spent luxuriating on daybeds by the lovely blue pool. We were joined by several mixed Khmer/French/US families and with several young children also splashing around, it made for an altogether happy bunch of aquatic revelers. As I watched Leakhena make like a little otter for ages, I was stunned when she told me later that it was her first ever time in a swimming pool ! “Why is the water blue? “, “Why do my eyes hurt? “ So I had to try and explain CHLORINE to her which she eventually grasped when I likened it to detergent.
We eventually retired for an afternoon siesta and then around 6pm we hit the restaurant for a casual dinner in the restaurant poolside. We were the only ones dining and it was very serene as the garden was lit up with spotlights. The mosquitoes were a bit fierce but a coil was soon proffered and after tucking in to spaghetti bolognaise and tom yam soup, we retired early for a spot of TV and sleep came swiftly.
The next day we made and executive decision to stay another night (we had only intended on staying one) and I had to take a quick run into Phnom Penh to get some cash but this only took an hour. It was just too nice and I knew Leakhena loved the pool. After a leisurely breakfast the entire day was spent poolside reading and listening to music and swimming and this day it actually got quite busy with day trippers. French was the main dialect of the day but Dutch was heard, North American, German, and Khmer etc….very international indeed! Leakhena was keen to go to Kien Svay food market down the road but I vetoed this. Why would you want to go to a dusty, hot food market where you have to run around getting your won food when you could be poolside having it delivered to you!!
So after two days and two nights of this, we were thoroughly relaxed having sleapt, eaten and swum like kings. The bill all up came to $155 including a tip and whilst we did not drink much, the food was just outstanding.Leakhena had the time of her life in the pool- although she was ruing the damage it had done to her hair!. I later took her to Psar Kandal for a hair and nail treatment and she was soon back to her former gorgeous glory – hell, I even had a pedicure and manicure ( $1) to finish of the weekend !
All in all…bliss!
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Khmer Wedding Protocol
For those of you interested in what I will soon go through ( most likely February 2008 ), here is an outline of how a Khmer wedding pans out ;
A traditional Khmer wedding is one of the most joyous occasions for a Khmer family and typically lasts from three days to an entire week. It is a grand affair, full of color and festivity, as well as steeped in tradition. Family, friends, and other members of the community come together to share in the celebration. Musicians play throughout the day on traditional instruments, and the couple is dressed like royalty. The bride may change her outfit several times in one day. If the wedding were a weeklong affair, she could declare the color of her dress each day and the guests would dress only in that color.
Unlike most Western weddings, guests are usually highly animated during the ceremonies, with elders typically explaining the significance of the various customs to the younger generation. Please feel free to turn to a neighbor if you should have questions or comments about what is occurring. You may also stand up and leave the room if you need to stretch your legs. Guests freely move in and out during ceremonies, which is not considered rude.
At the beginning of the day, the bride customarily waits at her parent's house while the groom gathers a procession of his family and friends. The procession symbolizes the journey of the prince Preah Thong to meet his bride the princess Neang Neak. The groom's procession approaches the bride's home bearing wrapped platters of gifts, usually fruits and Khmer desserts, and is led by a band of musicians and singers.
Traditionally, the mai ba (a well-respected member of the bride's family who serves as its representative) comes out to greet the procession. The different number of fruits and desserts are counted - the more, the better. If found to be satisfactory, the mai ba and ma ha (representative for the groom's party) run through a humorous verbal parlay which ends with the groom and the rest of the procession being invited into the bride's home.
Sien Doan Taa - Call to Ancestors
Today is a beautiful day
And the arrangements are ready.
We offer these gifts
Inviting you to join usAnd shower us with your blessings
In Khmer culture, family bonds are the ones that are the most important, and a marriage is the inclusion of the couple into their new families. At all important events, family and friends are called upon to share in the celebrations and offer their blessings. This ceremony calls forth for those who have passed away, both family and friends, to offer their blessings and observe the wedding, if not in body, in spirit. It is a time to reflect on those near and dear to our hearts and remember to include them in our happiness.
Soat Mun - Blessings from the Monks
Out of respect and reverence for the monks, we ask that you remain silent while the bride and groom receive their blessings during this ceremony. Traditionally, three to five monks or as many as seven will invoke blessings which have been specifically chosen for the couple by the monks.
Gaat Sah - Cleansing Ceremony
O beautiful lovebirds,
Let us look at your facesPerfect shapes, all aligned.
Teeth as white and bright as ivory.
Before the bride and groom are officially married in the Khmer tradition, they must be properly prepared through an elaborate cleansing ceremony. The singers, representing visiting devada (deities who watch over the mortal realms), dance around the bride and groom. Their songs represent their enchantment with the beauty of the new couple, and they agree to personally cleanse and purify the bride and groom to bring them good fortune, beauty, and grace for the rest of their lives. The devada cut the hair of the couple and shave the groom, throwing away any excesses and misfortune that may have lingered. The new couple is also perfumed. At the conclusion of this ceremony, the visiting devada return to the realm of tansuor, the home of the gods and deceased ancestors.
According to the legend of Preah Tong and Neang Neak, they married without the naga king's knowledge. Neang Neak prayed to the devada to witness her hair being cut, after which they then carried locks of hair to her father. When he received her locks, he rejoiced in the knowledge that his daughter was being married.
Bang Chhat Madaiy - Honoring of the Parents
"Rumleuk kun madaiy oeupuk."
"Remember your obligations to your parents."
"Honor your parents as you do the gods."
This common Khmer sentiment is rooted in a Buddhist parable about not forgetting "kun" - a kind act or deed for which one owes repayment (a debt of gratitude). A monk explains to a temple visitor that without parents, one cannot be brought into the world to honor the gods in the first place. The traditional song that is performed is a reminder to the bride of the hardships of raising a child. It is a song of parental duty and fulfillment, which the bride and groom will one day experience for themselves. During this ceremony, the bride holds an umbrella over her mother, a gesture that symbolizes the reversal of the protective role of her parents.
Bongvul Pbopul - Passing of Blessings
"Mun ouy laing leah, mun ouy prort preah."
"Do not separate, do not part ways."
In this ceremony, currently married couples are asked to gather in a circle around the bride and groom. Three candles are lit and handed from person to person. Each participant passes his or her right hand over it in a sweeping motion towards the couple, sending or throwing a silent blessing to them. Only married couples are asked to participate, as it is believed that they will pass along the special quality or essence which has preserved their union. The candles are passed around the circle clockwise seven times to complete the ceremony.
Sompeas Ptem - Knot Tying Ceremony
Khmer weddings traditionally have a knot tying ceremony, but unlike what the name implies, it is the guests who tie the knots, not the bride and groom. Close family and friends are invited to come forward to bring their best wishes and blessings to the new couple by individually tying ribbons around each of their wrists. These knots are tied on both the bride and groom, who were traditionally required to wear them for three days afterwards to preserve the good luck. This ceremony has customarily been considered an ideal opportunity to take a picture of each guest in attendance with the new couple.
So there you have it !!. All in all an exhausting but culturally rich day ! Some other tidbits for you;
A traditional Khmer wedding is one of the most joyous occasions for a Khmer family and typically lasts from three days to an entire week. It is a grand affair, full of color and festivity, as well as steeped in tradition. Family, friends, and other members of the community come together to share in the celebration. Musicians play throughout the day on traditional instruments, and the couple is dressed like royalty. The bride may change her outfit several times in one day. If the wedding were a weeklong affair, she could declare the color of her dress each day and the guests would dress only in that color.
Unlike most Western weddings, guests are usually highly animated during the ceremonies, with elders typically explaining the significance of the various customs to the younger generation. Please feel free to turn to a neighbor if you should have questions or comments about what is occurring. You may also stand up and leave the room if you need to stretch your legs. Guests freely move in and out during ceremonies, which is not considered rude.
At the beginning of the day, the bride customarily waits at her parent's house while the groom gathers a procession of his family and friends. The procession symbolizes the journey of the prince Preah Thong to meet his bride the princess Neang Neak. The groom's procession approaches the bride's home bearing wrapped platters of gifts, usually fruits and Khmer desserts, and is led by a band of musicians and singers.
Traditionally, the mai ba (a well-respected member of the bride's family who serves as its representative) comes out to greet the procession. The different number of fruits and desserts are counted - the more, the better. If found to be satisfactory, the mai ba and ma ha (representative for the groom's party) run through a humorous verbal parlay which ends with the groom and the rest of the procession being invited into the bride's home.
Sien Doan Taa - Call to Ancestors
Today is a beautiful day
And the arrangements are ready.
We offer these gifts
Inviting you to join usAnd shower us with your blessings
In Khmer culture, family bonds are the ones that are the most important, and a marriage is the inclusion of the couple into their new families. At all important events, family and friends are called upon to share in the celebrations and offer their blessings. This ceremony calls forth for those who have passed away, both family and friends, to offer their blessings and observe the wedding, if not in body, in spirit. It is a time to reflect on those near and dear to our hearts and remember to include them in our happiness.
Soat Mun - Blessings from the Monks
Out of respect and reverence for the monks, we ask that you remain silent while the bride and groom receive their blessings during this ceremony. Traditionally, three to five monks or as many as seven will invoke blessings which have been specifically chosen for the couple by the monks.
Gaat Sah - Cleansing Ceremony
O beautiful lovebirds,
Let us look at your facesPerfect shapes, all aligned.
Teeth as white and bright as ivory.
Before the bride and groom are officially married in the Khmer tradition, they must be properly prepared through an elaborate cleansing ceremony. The singers, representing visiting devada (deities who watch over the mortal realms), dance around the bride and groom. Their songs represent their enchantment with the beauty of the new couple, and they agree to personally cleanse and purify the bride and groom to bring them good fortune, beauty, and grace for the rest of their lives. The devada cut the hair of the couple and shave the groom, throwing away any excesses and misfortune that may have lingered. The new couple is also perfumed. At the conclusion of this ceremony, the visiting devada return to the realm of tansuor, the home of the gods and deceased ancestors.
According to the legend of Preah Tong and Neang Neak, they married without the naga king's knowledge. Neang Neak prayed to the devada to witness her hair being cut, after which they then carried locks of hair to her father. When he received her locks, he rejoiced in the knowledge that his daughter was being married.
Bang Chhat Madaiy - Honoring of the Parents
"Rumleuk kun madaiy oeupuk."
"Remember your obligations to your parents."
"Honor your parents as you do the gods."
This common Khmer sentiment is rooted in a Buddhist parable about not forgetting "kun" - a kind act or deed for which one owes repayment (a debt of gratitude). A monk explains to a temple visitor that without parents, one cannot be brought into the world to honor the gods in the first place. The traditional song that is performed is a reminder to the bride of the hardships of raising a child. It is a song of parental duty and fulfillment, which the bride and groom will one day experience for themselves. During this ceremony, the bride holds an umbrella over her mother, a gesture that symbolizes the reversal of the protective role of her parents.
Bongvul Pbopul - Passing of Blessings
"Mun ouy laing leah, mun ouy prort preah."
"Do not separate, do not part ways."
In this ceremony, currently married couples are asked to gather in a circle around the bride and groom. Three candles are lit and handed from person to person. Each participant passes his or her right hand over it in a sweeping motion towards the couple, sending or throwing a silent blessing to them. Only married couples are asked to participate, as it is believed that they will pass along the special quality or essence which has preserved their union. The candles are passed around the circle clockwise seven times to complete the ceremony.
Sompeas Ptem - Knot Tying Ceremony
Khmer weddings traditionally have a knot tying ceremony, but unlike what the name implies, it is the guests who tie the knots, not the bride and groom. Close family and friends are invited to come forward to bring their best wishes and blessings to the new couple by individually tying ribbons around each of their wrists. These knots are tied on both the bride and groom, who were traditionally required to wear them for three days afterwards to preserve the good luck. This ceremony has customarily been considered an ideal opportunity to take a picture of each guest in attendance with the new couple.
So there you have it !!. All in all an exhausting but culturally rich day ! Some other tidbits for you;
- I cannot have married men in my Bridal party - usually 3 to 4 strong.
- You do not give gifts but rather pass white envelopes containing cash to a designated "banker".The banker meticulously records the amount bequethed and when that person gets married you must match the amount.
Review;Do Do Rum House
This little bar on street #178 is a French owned and predominantly French patronized bastion of chic. However, despite its Gaelic heritage, it is distinctly Latino in flavour owing to it being the epicenter of Rum drinking in Phnom Penh. Do Do’s owner Remy has amassed a collection of the world’s finest rums and even if you are not a rum drinker, (as I wasn’t -but now am!), there is bound to be a flavour you will enjoy. If you are feeling bold, go the spicy rum with hints of cinnamon or if you are intrepid I can highly recommend the delicious coconut rum with ice. The rums are cheap at $1.50-$2, beers and other spirits are available, and there is also a very nice food menu including a range of duck dishes. The bar itself is very cool with lots of low seating, low lighting, and luscious interior décor touches and the music is always smooth.
Highly recommended.
Highly recommended.
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Water Water Everywhere
Sometimes life is ironic and full of surprises. You can be doing it tough one day and then on cloud nine the next or all can be rosy and then a lawn mower can come along and take your petals right off you. Where is this going you all ask?
So the other day The Flatmate comes into the living room looking all pale and pasty and tells me that we are out of water. No problems I say, I hop up to the roof and turn on the reserve tank and within seconds we have water again. I had been told by my landlord that the town water might crap out sometime and that the reserve tank was there for just such a time. Too easy.
Yesterday The Flatmate comes in to the living room looking even paler and pastier (she had been on a week long bender by now) and says “We have no water again”. How can this be I think? So I skip up to the roof again and this time to my horror the reserve tank is empty. We really are waterless. Herein enters the first bit of irony because running out of water in Phnom Penh is like running out of sand in the United Arab Emirates.
So a quick call to the Landlord and over he comes and introduces me to a few taps with flow cocks that I did not even know existed and within seconds the reserve tank is filling up again and it is happy days. No electricity and therefore no fans and no Aircon is bearable in Phnom Penh because you can have a shower…..but no water is surely a sticky death by perspiration! So off I go back to work secure on the knowledge that I will be able to cool down later on.
Today at lunchtime I walk up the stairs to the apartment and as I get to the door I can hear a loud splashing sound that I have not heard before. Hmmm…..obviously The Flatmate is showering Swedish style with the door open is my first thought. Then I realise it is way too loud for that and I start to get a sick feeling as I open the door and the sound becomes even louder. I walk down the corridor and am aghast to see we now have an internal water feature cascading down from the loft level. What the &^$&^$ ?
Basically as it turns out….the tank in the roof is NOT a reserve tank but rather the main tank which is fed by town water from down at street level so it can then feed the apartment water under gravity and you have to manage the tanks water level with your flow taps. As we had left them all on, the inflow into the tank had eventually overtaken the outflow of our showering and it was now spewing its excess all over the apartment. And herein lies the ultimate irony as I had just that morning been thanking my lucky stars that I was not going through the awful flooding that was besetting my home region in Australia !
So it is going to be a busy afternoon but I have two mops, a huge squeegee and several cold beers in the fridge and I am then off to The Do Do Rum House for a French duck stew with my new Australian friends and Leakhena so it isn’t all bad !
So the other day The Flatmate comes into the living room looking all pale and pasty and tells me that we are out of water. No problems I say, I hop up to the roof and turn on the reserve tank and within seconds we have water again. I had been told by my landlord that the town water might crap out sometime and that the reserve tank was there for just such a time. Too easy.
Yesterday The Flatmate comes in to the living room looking even paler and pastier (she had been on a week long bender by now) and says “We have no water again”. How can this be I think? So I skip up to the roof again and this time to my horror the reserve tank is empty. We really are waterless. Herein enters the first bit of irony because running out of water in Phnom Penh is like running out of sand in the United Arab Emirates.
So a quick call to the Landlord and over he comes and introduces me to a few taps with flow cocks that I did not even know existed and within seconds the reserve tank is filling up again and it is happy days. No electricity and therefore no fans and no Aircon is bearable in Phnom Penh because you can have a shower…..but no water is surely a sticky death by perspiration! So off I go back to work secure on the knowledge that I will be able to cool down later on.
Today at lunchtime I walk up the stairs to the apartment and as I get to the door I can hear a loud splashing sound that I have not heard before. Hmmm…..obviously The Flatmate is showering Swedish style with the door open is my first thought. Then I realise it is way too loud for that and I start to get a sick feeling as I open the door and the sound becomes even louder. I walk down the corridor and am aghast to see we now have an internal water feature cascading down from the loft level. What the &^$&^$ ?
Basically as it turns out….the tank in the roof is NOT a reserve tank but rather the main tank which is fed by town water from down at street level so it can then feed the apartment water under gravity and you have to manage the tanks water level with your flow taps. As we had left them all on, the inflow into the tank had eventually overtaken the outflow of our showering and it was now spewing its excess all over the apartment. And herein lies the ultimate irony as I had just that morning been thanking my lucky stars that I was not going through the awful flooding that was besetting my home region in Australia !
So it is going to be a busy afternoon but I have two mops, a huge squeegee and several cold beers in the fridge and I am then off to The Do Do Rum House for a French duck stew with my new Australian friends and Leakhena so it isn’t all bad !
My Editor's Party
On Saturday night I found myself attending my first house party in Phnom Penh and I must say I was quite excited and chuffed. Excited to not have to go to a bar for a change and chuffed to have been included on the invitee list. The invite came at the behest of MY EDITOR (God, it is sooooo cool being able to say that!) and the party was being held to welcome her new flatmate, the gorgeous Nimol. So at 6pm I mounted my trusty steed, secured a box of Anchor beer and a massive bag of ice and winged it over to Tracy’s place.
On arrival I was greeted by a motley crew sitting outside MY EDITOR’S apartment. Dirt bikes were in abundance (always a good look) including one ancient BMW that had been shipped from North America .Introductions were made and the night began in earnest. As I quaffed my first beer of the night, I watched with interest as the BMW’s existing muffler was taken off and was replaced with one crafted from a single beer can. “Why?” I asked the owner. “Not loud enough!” was the reply. I liked this guy straight away. Also to my delight, my Khmer teacher, San Phalla, and his wife were in attendance as MY EDITOR and I share his services and Nimol had a few of her girlfriends so all in all it was a nice mixed crowd which is just how I like it.
As we tucked into delicious chicken wings and tasty soup, we drank cold beer out of a bucket and the talk ranged far and wide. One of the chaps at the party has been flying ultra light planes over Cambodia for years www.wingsovercambodia.com and has actually done work for Aruna in the past and I envied his job immensely. I marveled as he told me that he has actually been up so high in the sky that he has looked down on Commercial jets on occasion!! The conversation ranged far and wide and when we got onto the topic of knives, it turned out all the guys there were knife.....um.... aficionados and that topic got major lap time. We all decided that we would be buying a knife from Citadel www.citadel.com.kh at some stage and whilst some voted for a bowie knife capable of skinning a buffalo ( or a small khmer house invader ), others of us were after single folding blades. One chap was even in the market for a custom made Gurkha knife.
As it got later, the conversation degenerated somewhat and the now infamous “Kitten Eating Episode of Phnom Penh” occurred. I won’t go into it but suffice to say the photos MY EDITOR took were classic, the cat emerged unharmed and unstressed and the gourmand who attempted the feat may or may not have rabies. Only time will tell. After a bloody good laugh over a few hours it was decided by the group that it was time to head out for a look-see and so several dirt bikes and a howlingly loud BMW headed out into the night. A mini Hell’s Angels no less! As we cruised around trying to find a venue, we had a lot of fun swapping lead riders and dragging each other off at lights and we soon arrived at Memphis Bar where some loud music was being belted out by an enthusiastic band. Only problem was, the beers were $2.50 and in Phnom Penh that is plain extortion so we soon left. Next stop was Sharkey Bar where we played pool and continued to have a right laugh.
Soon enough it was time for me to go home. The yawns were coming thick and fast and whilst the others were looking like heading out to at least another 5 bars, I opted for a safe trip home at around 1a.m. All in all a great night was had by all at MY EDITOR’S party. Met some new people, ate some great tucker, had a good laugh all night and went home at a reasonable hour. 10/10.
Thanks Tracy !
On arrival I was greeted by a motley crew sitting outside MY EDITOR’S apartment. Dirt bikes were in abundance (always a good look) including one ancient BMW that had been shipped from North America .Introductions were made and the night began in earnest. As I quaffed my first beer of the night, I watched with interest as the BMW’s existing muffler was taken off and was replaced with one crafted from a single beer can. “Why?” I asked the owner. “Not loud enough!” was the reply. I liked this guy straight away. Also to my delight, my Khmer teacher, San Phalla, and his wife were in attendance as MY EDITOR and I share his services and Nimol had a few of her girlfriends so all in all it was a nice mixed crowd which is just how I like it.
As we tucked into delicious chicken wings and tasty soup, we drank cold beer out of a bucket and the talk ranged far and wide. One of the chaps at the party has been flying ultra light planes over Cambodia for years www.wingsovercambodia.com and has actually done work for Aruna in the past and I envied his job immensely. I marveled as he told me that he has actually been up so high in the sky that he has looked down on Commercial jets on occasion!! The conversation ranged far and wide and when we got onto the topic of knives, it turned out all the guys there were knife.....um.... aficionados and that topic got major lap time. We all decided that we would be buying a knife from Citadel www.citadel.com.kh at some stage and whilst some voted for a bowie knife capable of skinning a buffalo ( or a small khmer house invader ), others of us were after single folding blades. One chap was even in the market for a custom made Gurkha knife.
As it got later, the conversation degenerated somewhat and the now infamous “Kitten Eating Episode of Phnom Penh” occurred. I won’t go into it but suffice to say the photos MY EDITOR took were classic, the cat emerged unharmed and unstressed and the gourmand who attempted the feat may or may not have rabies. Only time will tell. After a bloody good laugh over a few hours it was decided by the group that it was time to head out for a look-see and so several dirt bikes and a howlingly loud BMW headed out into the night. A mini Hell’s Angels no less! As we cruised around trying to find a venue, we had a lot of fun swapping lead riders and dragging each other off at lights and we soon arrived at Memphis Bar where some loud music was being belted out by an enthusiastic band. Only problem was, the beers were $2.50 and in Phnom Penh that is plain extortion so we soon left. Next stop was Sharkey Bar where we played pool and continued to have a right laugh.
Soon enough it was time for me to go home. The yawns were coming thick and fast and whilst the others were looking like heading out to at least another 5 bars, I opted for a safe trip home at around 1a.m. All in all a great night was had by all at MY EDITOR’S party. Met some new people, ate some great tucker, had a good laugh all night and went home at a reasonable hour. 10/10.
Thanks Tracy !
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