Looking from rear of our block to front
The main road at the front of our new block ( on the RHS )
Hot on the heels of Stan Kahn's excellent articles about buying land in Cambodia I will now share the first chapter of our experience with you all. Bare in mind as you read this that our goal is to buy a few blocks. One to build a special house on (maybe totally Khmer wood style , maybe hybrid western / Khmer, pool, garden etc etc ) where we can escape the city with our child/ren. We also want to buy one farm on (I am from farming stock and like a lot of guys here I like the idea of having some pigs and some chickens and some fruit trees ) and one to flip at some time for profit. As Stan says, everyone wants to profit but I figure if you buy sensibly in Cambodia that is a no-brainer. Absolutely a $150k shop-house in Kampot makes 0 sense.
Having stumbled upon out our ideal location during our honeymoon down in Kep a month ago, we had our hearts set on a one acre block set back in the hills with glorious views over the rice fields to mountains beyond. Being an Australian I need to be right near the coast and I also am addicted to the Rusty Keyhole’s ribs so the location between Kep Main Beach and the RK was perfect. This weekend a friend very kindly loaned me his RAV4 (a great car and I have totally blown the idea of a cheap KIA in favour of a RAV) and we set off down to Kampot for another weekend. We wanted to revisit the block and we also wanted to look at several other blocks to see what else was available and how prices were comparing.
Saturday morning we head out to secret road X with my uncle in tow who is ex-Kampot Commune chief and arrived at the original block we had looked at two weeks earlier. I took another walk around the perimeter and still loved this block BUT I then found a grave within the boundaries which set off warning bells. Khmers don’t like ghosts and I had visions of many complications trying to get the body exhumed and moved. Not really the sort of start I wanted to our dream block. Some discussions with the lady next door to our dream block alerted us to the fact that there were actually quite a few graves in the back corner which was overgrown with heavy thicket and so that block was now off the menu. My Uncle and wife had no problem with one body but apparently a group of dead bodies is not so good….

Dead bodies = Bad Karma so we let this block slide..
Any of you have gone through this process of looking for land in rural Cambodia knows that the drums beat quickly and it does not take long before people are coming out of the wood work, walking out of the bush and crossing rice paddocks to talk to you about the land THEY have for sale. We are taken from left to right, up and down and shown all manner of interesting blocks at all manner of interesting ( mostly cheap ) prices with all manner of good and bad points. Every visit requires an hour or so of discussion .As we tootled along the road everyone was watching us licking their lips. At one point, we stopped at a junction unsure which way to go and were approached by a very nice, well dressed man who was drinking a coke at a stall and he asked us if we were lost. We told him no, were just looking for land and he mentions his brother and Uncle have some land along the road, which I might also mention now is an absolutely perfect hard packed, elevated red dirt. So we followed him to a very nice location and at the base of a mountain stood 3 blocks side by side (all about 40 x 50m and all $10k ) and then at the back of those blocks in a very secluded location was a one hectare ++ elevated, level glade of palm and fruit trees. My mouth was watering when he told us this block was $25k. HOWEVER access to this block was via a 2m “road” (moto track) that ran between two of the blocks at the front. We asked if it would be possible to widen the track to the back glade to allow a car and he said not unless you owned one or two of the blocks at the front….indeed, he advised that the best strategy would be to buy the front block to at least give us the option. There was no other way into that back block as nice as it was!!

This block was stunning but the access was a real issue so it went by the wayside too...
While we were looking at these blocks some ladies approached and told us not to bother looking at the blocks because they had already bought one and had put a deposit on the others. Our man rang his brother who confirmed this was bullshit – they were bluffing. So we went and had a pow wow with the family and told them we wanted to buy ONE of the blocks (the best one with direct road access). We explained we wanted to raise a family and could they please give us 24 hours to come back tomorrow with a deposit and they all smiled and said yes no problems. We figured if we bought the front one and could raise the cash for the back one we could then put a road across the front one and for $35k we would have close to 1.3ha of heaven. Even if we could not buy the back one, we still got a great block in the front one. We went back to our hotel all smiles and excitement and as we walked in the door my wife’s phone rang and we were told by our man that after we left the other people indeed arrived with a deposit and the land was now ALL sold. Our man however did say that he was very disappointed in the way things had happened but that as it was not his land he could not do much and he was very sorry but would keep trying for us.

Gazumped by locals on this one. Grrrrrrrrr
We were actually really devastated. You know when you really want something, you know it is a great deal and you can see so much potential it has to helo you realise a dream and then.well..defeat. We lay together in a deflated huddle on the bed… no talking and it was pretty gloomy. Then…lo and behold..our man called again. By now it is almost 5p.m and he tells us he has found another block and did we want to come look. In a flash we were in the car and back out to Secret road X and we were shown to a block that took me all of about 1 minute to decide this block was totally perfect for our needs. Funnily enough – it actually looked over at the blocks that had caused us so much pain. I pace it outand I figure it is roughly 35 x 30m, it is perfectly elevated and level on a corner position with an excellent main road along the front and a 2m moto track running down one side so that means no neighbours on two sides. With a house positioned facing the western sunsets, views will be a mountain right on the front door and Kep beach is oh so close. Power is also coming to the road.

Our Block ; Beautiful mountain views to the west
So……again we sit down and have a pow wow with the single mother who needs money for the rice crop. I offer her over the odds( trust me it was still bloody cheap ) and we have to tell them that we did not come with any money. We told them we would try to raise a deposit in Kampot through friends but if not, my wife could come back down on a bus in a few days. All is agreed and again, we leave ecstatic.
Side road to west of our block ( on LHS )
When we get back to Kampot we panic and decide by hell or high water, we will leave a deposit and will not be gazumped again so thanks to some very nice business owner in Kampot who know us from our dozens of visits ( thanks Christian at the RKH ), and a mate who happens to be down there ( thanks Murray !) we scrounge up $300 and the next morning we arrive with cash in hand. Prior to going out I buy a $5/50m measuring tape and on measuring the block it is actually 26m x 36m but I am not going to haggle over $1000 and a few meters here or there. (Word to the wise; if you do not have a tape – use a LONG pace as a meter). The land is perfect for us; it will easily accommodate a house, pool , lush gardens and machinery/carport and is a low-budget, low-stress foray into the land market. We are given a formal deposit slip which we all thumbprint and I am also walked through the title process which my uncle confirms with our man. Once we return with the balance this weekend, we will have a new formal soft-title (commune level) document with both our names on it and registered in Kep. I am not going to bother with hard title because no-one down there has it and at the price I am ok with this decision. After the formalities our man insists we go to the market to get 4 concrete plinths to mark the corners of our block ( more nice advice ! ) and we do this and then return to the block for installation. All is done. We now (almost) own land in Kep and we are stoked. Of course it could all go to shit in which case chapter 2 will make for interesting reading ;-)

Our Block ;Looking to the rear ( south )
I am actually going to take a little extra with me this weekend because on the way out our man shows us one last block… He has saved the best for last.A 52 x 52m farming block one km off the main road along a 2m moto track that they all want to make into a vehicular road. The block is surrounded by rice fields but sits about 3m higher on a little knoll, has some very mature trees along the back of it and has stunning mountain views. It would make another AMAZING site for a house (for some reason I am addicted to the idea of a house sitting in the middle of lime green rice fields) or a separate fruit farm or a flipper! As we only find out when we say goodbye, our man is actually a Kep police captain and his uncle is the Kep Commune Chief. He tells us not to worry about the process, it will all be handled properly and I feel we have met a very powerful ally in that area and he is already at work trying to find the owner of the block next to ours so we can hopefully secure that too.
Doing the deal; Policeman in white, owner in purple.
Concluding chapter one, I can tell you all that if , like us, you want to eventually live or own in Kep because of it’s coastal location and it’s potential for booming prices, it is ENTIRELY possible to buy super cheap, super sweet land RIGHT NOW. I cannot forecast the future but I can say with 100% certainty that nowhere in SE Asia or even the world for that matter can you buy land this beautiful near the coast at these prices. You have all heard about the $1m++ waterfront blocks but there is sooooooooooooo much more down there in the backlots. Let them have the waterfront. I am happy to pay peanuts and have to drive 5 minutes to get to it ;-) and my ribs are just a jaunt away.

STOKED !!!!